6 effective anti-aging ingredients for the skin

We all crave that jar of cream that promises eternally youthful skin but how do you know it’s not snake oil? Nur Akmar Yusoff asks the experts to find out.

Many women have fallen prey to lotions and potions that are more about flashy packaging than delivering results. But knowing the contents of anti-aging products can help you distinguish between a real deal and a false promise. Singaporean dermatologist Dr. Jean Ho and Medical Director of Health Pathway Dr. Inder Kaur, who is board certified by the American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine, tell us about some of the best ingredients that have been proven to effectively halt skin aging.

Retinol

Dr. Ho says any serious anti-aging treatment program should contain retinol, a topical ingredient that is a form of vitamin A. “Aging causes the skin’s renewing ability to decline, making skin appear dull and coarse with mottled pigmentation. As collagen production declines, the skin loses its elasticity. Retinol works on receptors within the skin cells to maintain cellular growth and regeneration, promoting collagen production and reducing fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Dr. Ho. She says that with consistent use, retinol can reverse all aspects of photoaged skin, while preventing skin aging. Retinol creams can cause the skin to become dry and flaky but using it exactly as directed and avoiding excess sun exposure can help minimise the side effects.

Swiss Apple Stem Cell

In recent years, botanical stem cells have been making their way into skincare products and one such example is the Swiss apple stem cell. Cultivated from a rare and endangered species of apple tree called the Uttwiler Spätlauber, the fruit contains regenerative stem cells that protect it from decay, even months after picking. “When incorporated into skincare products, these stem cells can enhance the longevity of human skin cells and help combat chronological aging, while also delaying the skin cells’ senescence (biological aging) process,” says Dr. Inder. “They also help to preserve a youthful look and vitality to the skin as well as to reduce the effects of deep wrinkles and fine lines by protecting and rejuvenating the human stem cells.” This ingredient has garnered much attention from famous names (First Lady Michelle Obama is a fan) and some users say that it delivers results after only a few weeks of use.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is vital for cell survival and collagen synthesis but exposure to UV radiation and environmental pollution can deplete this nutrient from the skin. Dr. Ho notes that this can be reversed by increasing the levels of vitamin C through topical delivery, which has been shown to be far more effective than oral supplements. “There are many benefits of topical vitamin C. It enhances the production of collagen and pro-collagen, and improves the appearance of wrinkles,” says Dr. Ho. “As an anti-oxidant, it prevents photoaging by protecting the skin from UV-induced free radical damage. It also reduces melanin production and has an excellent lightening effect on pigmentation, giving the skin a healthy glow.” Dr. Ho adds that the combination of vitamins C and E exerts a synergistic effect, giving five-fold protection against UV compared to any single agent used alone.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid ranks high on the list of ingredients that can reduce the effects of aging. Naturally produced by the human body, the key feature of hyaluronic acid is its ability to retain water, keeping skin hydrated. “Consumers are attracted to hyaluronic acid because of its many benefits,” says Dr. Inder. “It hydrates the skin, allowing it to appear smoother and supple, plus it is effective in plumping and firming sagging skin. Not only does it reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, it also helps to heal wounds more quickly and can lessen the appearance of old and new scars.” Besides being found in skincare products, hyaluronic acid is also used as an injectable filler to give instant volume and shape to the face and lips.

Polypodium Leucotomus extract

Found in Central and South America, the tropical fern Polypodium leucotomus possesses a number of medicinal properties. Although its extract has been used in traditional medicine for the treatment of various skin conditions (such as eczema, psoriasis, and vitiligo), Dr. Ho says it has also demonstrated antioxidant and photo-protective effects against UV radiation. “When taken orally, it increases the antioxidant capacity of the skin, preventing sunburn and tanning caused by UV exposure.” Intake of this fern extract has so far shown no side effects but no trials of its usage during pregnancy and breast-feeding have been done; a healthcare professional should always be consulted before consumption.

Peptides

Peptides have been on the cutting edge of anti-aging skincare in recent years. Usually incorporated into serums or creams, these chains of amino acids are responsible for sending signals to skin cells, prompting them to produce more collagen as well as enhancing the performance of antioxidants. Currently, various forms of peptides have been developed to tackle a wide range of skin concerns.

According to Dr. Ho, patients who desire the effects of botulinum toxin type A but prefer a non-injectable solution, can turn to a cream containing acetyl hexapeptide. “This synthetic peptide has been shown to improve the appearance of fine wrinkles around the eyes. It acts on the same pathway as the botulinum protein, and may be beneficial in prolonging the results post-injection,” elaborates Dr. Ho.

Another synthetic peptide that can help thwart wrinkles is oligopeptide-29, which contains 12 amino acids consisting of alanine, arginine, histidine, leusine, lysine, proline and serine. “This powerful peptide is designed to repair and rejuvenate the skin by stimulating collagen production to produce visibly fewer lines and wrinkles,” states Dr. Inder.

Those looking for solutions to their pigmentation problems can rely on mushroom tyrosinase-inhibiting oligopeptides. Derived from mushrooms, these oligopeptides inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production in the skin, which causes uneven pigmentation and dark spots. “This novel peptide targets the first stage of the pigmentation pathway, slowing down pigment production by melanocytes (melanin producing cells) to yield an even-toned complexion for all skin types,” comments Dr. Ho.

“With potency matching that of hydroquinone but minus the toxicity, oligopeptides are suitable for long term use as part of a maintenance skin treatment program against pigmentation.”